Retinol is a very commonly discussed ingredient in the skincare world but what exactly is retinol, and how can it benefit your skincare routine? A lot of patients either use or are considering to use retinol and so I thought I would write an article all about it!
What is Retinol?
Retinol belongs to a class of compounds known as retinoids, which are derivatives of vitamin A. Unlike its prescription-strength counterpart, tretinoin, retinol is available over the counter in various skincare products, making it accessible to a wide range of individuals seeking to enhance their skincare regimen.
How does Retinol work?
Retinol works on the skin through a process of conversion. Once applied, retinol undergoes enzymatic conversion within the skin to its active form, tretinoin. This active metabolite then interacts with specialised receptors in the skin cells, stimulating processes that are crucial for skin health, which include:
Promoting Cell Turnover: One of the key benefits of retinol is its ability to accelerate the rate of cellular turnover. By encouraging the shedding of old, damaged skin cells and promoting the growth of new ones, retinol helps to reveal fresher, smoother skin underneath. This process can improve the texture of the skin.
Boosting Collagen Production: Collagen is a protein that provides structure and elasticity to the skin. As we age, collagen production naturally declines, leading to the formation of wrinkles and sagging skin. Retinol has been shown to stimulate collagen synthesis, helping to maintain skin firmness and elasticity, and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Fading Hyperpigmentation: Whether caused by sun exposure, hormonal changes, or acne scars, hyperpigmentation can mar the complexion and make the skin appear uneven. Retinol possesses skin-lightening properties that can help to fade dark spots and discolouration, resulting in a more even skin tone and a brighter complexion.
Combating Acne: Acne is a common skin condition characterised by the presence of pimples, blackheads, and whiteheads. Retinol can help to prevent clogged pores and breakouts by regulating the process of keratinization, which is the formation of skin cells. It also has anti-inflammatory properties that can soothe redness and irritation associated with acne.
How should you introduce Retinol into you skin regime?
When introducing retinol into your skincare routine, it's important to start slowly and gradually increase frequency to allow your skin to acclimate. Begin by applying retinol once or twice a week, and then gradually increase to every other night or nightly, as tolerated. Always follow the instructions provided with your retinol product, and be sure to use sunscreen during the day, as retinol can increase sun sensitivity. For more about sunscreen please read our article here.
What percentage Retinol should you use?
Retinol is available in various formulations, including creams, serums, and lotions. Over the counter products will generally have a maximum of 1% retinol. When selecting a retinol product, consider your skin type and concerns. If you have sensitive skin may benefit from milder formulations (less than 0.5%), while those with oily or acne-prone skin may prefer lightweight gels or serums. If you would like further advice please feel free to contact us.
What risks are associated with the use of Retinol?
Skin Irritation:Â Retinol can cause skin irritation, particularly when first starting to use it or when using higher concentrations. This may manifest as redness, dryness, flakiness, or a stinging sensation. It's essential to start with a low concentration of retinol and gradually increase frequency and concentration as your skin adjusts.
Sun Sensitivity:Â Retinol can increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun, making it more prone to sunburn and damage from UV rays. It's crucial to apply sunscreen daily, preferably with a high SPF, and limit sun exposure while using retinol products.
Dryness and Peeling:Â Retinol can cause dryness and peeling, especially in areas where the skin is thinner or more sensitive, such as around the eyes and mouth. Using a moisturiser regularly can help mitigate these effects.
Pregnancy Concerns:Â Pregnant or breastfeeding individuals should avoid using retinol or any other retinoid-containing products, as they may pose risks to fetal development.
Interaction with Other Products:Â Retinol may interact with certain skincare products or medications, potentially increasing the risk of irritation or adverse effects. It's essential to consult with a healthcare professional before combining retinol with other active ingredients or treatments.
Initial Purging: Some individuals may experience an initial worsening of acne or breakouts when starting retinol. This is often referred to as a "purge" and is temporary as the skin adjusts to the treatment. However, if irritation persists or worsens, discontinue use and consult your practitioner.
Long-term Use:Â While retinol is generally safe for long-term use, continuous use may lead to cumulative effects, such as thinning of the skin or increased sensitivity. It's essential to monitor your skin's response and adjust your skincare routine accordingly.
What is the difference between Tretinoin and Retinol?
Some of you may have heard of Tretinoin. They are part of the same family but the differences between the two are:
Potency: Tretinoin is more potent than retinol. Tretinoin is a prescription-strength retinoid, while retinol is available over the counter in skincare products. Tretinoin works more directly and aggressively on skin concerns such as acne and photoaging due to its higher concentration.
Conversion: Retinol needs to undergo conversion in the skin before it becomes active retinoic acid, whereas tretinoin is already in its active form. This means that tretinoin can work more efficiently and effectively in stimulating cell turnover and collagen production.
Efficacy: Tretinoin tends to produce faster and more dramatic results compared to retinol. It's often prescribed for specific skin concerns such as acne, while retinol is more commonly used for general anti-aging purposes.
Side Effects: Tretinoin is associated with a higher risk of irritation, redness, dryness, and peeling compared to retinol. These side effects can be more pronounced, especially during the initial stages of treatment with tretinoin. Retinol, while also potentially irritating, tends to cause less severe side effects and may be better tolerated by individuals with sensitive skin.
Availability: Tretinoin is available only by prescription, while retinol can be found in various over-the-counter skincare products, including creams, serums, and lotions.
Lot's of information here but I hope you find it useful when deciding whether to incorporate Retinol into your skin regime and as always very happy to help if you need some!